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Planning to Order a Bespoke Suit? Don’t Fall for “Made-to-Measure”

The term bespoke is slowly losing its sheen, as many made-to-measure (MTM) suit companies wrongly use the term to glorify their products. While MTMs enjoy some form of standardization in the patterning and manufacturing processes, bespokes are made entirely from scratch based on customer’s specifications. For those who own or create “true bespoke”, this practice is rather frustrating. The intent of this post, however, is not to focus on the practices of unscrupulous MTM companies are following. Rather, to help you differentiate between a bespoke and an MTM suit.

Here is a list of distinguishing factors to guide you to buy a bespoke suit and not get duped by MTM suits being passed-off as bespokes.

 

Buy a Bespoke Suit -byDCLA

Number of Measurements

The number of measurements that go into a bespoke are much higher, compared to made-to-measure suits.  Typically, the number of measurements for a bespoke suit is 36. This is to ensure each aspect of the suit is taken into consideration in a meticulous fashion. For example, unlike MTM suits that have same tension and stitch throughout the garment, the fitting in bespoke suits can be adjusted where the body requires maximum movement space.

Pattern

When it comes to bespoke suits, the pattern varies from individual to individual, as each time a new pattern is created to meet the specific needs of the client – for a bespoke suit, the need goes beyond the measurements. For example, a bespoke tailor takes into account the slope of the shoulder, the arch of the back and many other such considerations. This, however, is not the case with made-to-measure suits where the patterns are based on standard sizes and later modified to suit individual requirements.

Fitting Sessions

Creating a true bespoke suit requires multiple fitting sessions. Leading bespoke tailors require 5+ mid fitting sessions to ensure that not even the smallest nuances of the wearer’s body are missed. Some of the common fitting sessions that bespoke tailors may call their customers for are; skeleton baste fitting, forward fitting and fin bar fin fitting. The difference in MTM suits is that usually there are no fitting sessions during the creation process. The only fittings are the initial fitting session at the time of taking measurements and a final session, after the suit is ready.

Fabrics

What comes into consideration here, is the number of mills and not the fabrics. Most bespoke tailors give you the option to select from 10+ mills and it is more appropriate to use the term “library” instead of fabric selection, as the number of options available is huge. With made to measure suits, the number is substantially reduced as a curated selection usually offers 1-2 mills only. That’s one of the reasons why investing in MTM suits ceases to make sense after you have a added few of them in your wardrobe.

 

Hand/Machine Cut and Sewn

Hand/Machine Cut and Sewn

For an MTM suit, the salesperson at the shop is usually trained and knows how to take your measurements and pass them on to the master tailor or lead cutter. The suit is then machine cut and sewn. However, at the time of ordering a bespoke suit you will meet the tailor making your suit directly. This is because bespoke tailors firmly believe that for them to meet the specific needs and varying shapes of the wearer, it is essential for them to personally take the measurements, cut the garment and do the needlework.

A Piece of Advice

Typically, a bespoke is much more expensive than a made-to-measure. However, this is not the best way of differentiating a bespoke from an MTM. Therefore, you must be able to differentiate between bespoke and MTM suits. Probe the bespoke manufacturer based on the differentiators mentioned in this blog rather than assuming a suit to be bespoke, simply because it’s expensive. To learn more about the finer differences between a bespoke and an MTM, feel free to speak with one of our representatives.

 

4 Tips to Create Your Own Style Statement: Time to Separate from the Clutter

Fashion, like almost everything in life, has certain rules. The only difference is that you are not supposed to cross the line in most aspects of life, but can always tweak the canons when it comes to styling. The level of bend in fashion standards varies from person to person, and a limited conscience in clothing is preferable, as the fashion world is not cast in black and white. What matters is your attitude, as it plays a key role in defining your styling sensibilities. To help you create a distinct style statement, let us take a look at some handy tips.

byDCLA- Custom Tailored Suits los Angeles

1. Consider Timeless over Trendy

Fashion is evolving at a great pace, and for many, being in vogue means following the trends, which is quite disparate from the true definition of being stylish. For most men and occasions, timeless clothing options, such as custom tailored suits, are always a safe bet. This, however, doesn’t imply that you are not allowed to explore beyond the norms. In fact, when it comes to bespoke suits, every element is truly “be spoken for”.

2. Quality Must be the Top Priority

People concerned about style care more about the products they chose, and worry less about the dollars they spend – trends may or may not influence them. This, however, does not imply you should splurge your money on some of the most expensive items you find in a store. Rather, invest in premium attires that are of great quality. For instance, a pair of custom-made Italian shoes, such as Zelli Shoes, or a bespoke suit made from Loro Piana fabric are lifelong investments.

3. Give Due Regard to Upkeep

Stylish men always price their wardrobe right. Practices such as storing your suit on a wooden hanger, using a quality brush to remove dirt and stains, and rotating it with another suit, are little actions that make a big difference to the overall lifespan of your clothing. In addition, while most people are way too busy or “mature” to do so, it is important to read the wash instructions provided by the manufacturer in order to ensure optimal lifespan of your clothing items.

4. Choose a Personal Design Expert

Those who aim to make a distinct style statement pay a lot of attention to their regalia and are always on a lookout for new and exciting ways to enhance their persona. Whether you are looking for custom tailored suits in Los Angeles or a pair of formal shoes, never compromise when it comes to the proficiency of the craftsmen working on your clothing. Remember, designer clothing may cost a little more compared to off-the-shelf products, but their impeccable craftsmanship and quality make them worth every cent of your investment.

Confidence is a by-product of various elements that include elegance and style. The fact that clothing holds the power and potential to influence your mindset and that of people who interact with, is not a new thing. It is for this reason why people with a solid sense of fashion are more confident than others.

Belts and Shoes: Which Colors Shall I Choose?

Don’t be confused with belt selection, ever again!

 

Julia: “Victor, we are getting late.”

Victor: “Ya coming, 10 minutes please. Let me quickly put on my charcoal gray suit and burgundy shoes. Ya, these look nice. Ah, belt, well black looks great, but my shoes are burgundy, so maybe I can try brown instead, or shall I stick to burgundy? Argh, the burgundy belt I have does not exactly match the shade of my shoes. What should i do?”

Situations like these are common and quite frustrating. Despite having a selection of the right ensembles and accessories, you may find yourself unable to decide what to wear. This is precisely what we will talk about in this brief post. The issue of matching shoes and belts, among men, may sound petty, but it is a problem faced by most men regularly – no exceptions. So, lets try to help Victor.

Men's  Belt

Shoes and Belts: Deciphering the Rules

Though, with progressive designers constantly redefining norms, there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to men’s styling, there sure are more than a few pitfalls, such as wearing a slip-on with a formal suite! All in all, it is more about your approach, which may give way to certain protocols.

The Conventional

Taking a cue from conventional fashion rules, it is ideal to wear a belt and shoes of the same color. So, if you are wearing a black shoe, a black belt is game, and with a brown shoe, fasten a brown belt – its that easy! However, the possibility that your belt and shoes will be of the exact same color is marginal. In fact, there is no need to press yourself hard to find an exact match – a little difference in the shade may not hurt, Besides, those who wish to highlight such a difference may take the contemporary route.

The Contemporary

Fashion has always been about following and breaking trends, otherwise, it would never have evolved in the manner that it has. So, what does the contemporary rule say? For those who do not like to conform, there is much room for experimentation.Dark brown shoes and a light brown belt, for instance, make a great combination. Trying different shades of the same color is, in fact, a great way to add some contrast to your dressing and be in vogue. Moreover, this gives you more options in terms of accessories.

RED FLAG: Never team a black shoe with a brown belt, unless the tone is so dark that it looks black.

Summing Up

Whether matching your shoes and belt, you will never do wrong if you keep it simple and go for premium quality items. When it comes to belts, you may try out as many combination as you want to find styles that suit you the best. No matter the color, if your belt has worn out, replace it immediately. As far options are concerned; although genuine leather belts are the way go, you may also go for synthetic belts if budget is a constraint. Should you wish to learn more, feel free to contact our support desk.

5 Must-Follow Suit Care Commandments

Tailored suits crafted from premium quality fabrics make a great impression. Although every man would agree with this statement, many are not as concerned with the upkeep of their quality tailored suit. The result: diminished appeal and curtailed lifespan. To help, this post discusses 5 simple suit maintenance tips to ensure that your bespoke suit says in mint condition for years to come. Let’s begin.

 

byDCLA - Men's Suit

 

1. Rotate Your Suits
Doning any suit continuously over time long time is bound to result in premature wear and tear. The best way to maintain your suit is to rotate it with other suits. Ideally, you should have a 3 week rotation of suits in your wardrobe. So if you are wearing suit twice a week you should have at least 6 “go to suits” that you would wear for any given situation. The reason for this is that the one thing that absolutely ruins garments is drycleaning. We at bydcla recommend that you dry clean you suits only once a year. The only way you are able to do this if you have enough suits in your wardrobe and wear your suits no more than once to twice every 3 weeks. This will increase the lifespan of all your suits.

 

2. Invest in Extra Trousers
Buying an extra trouser with a suit is a great way to not only add variety to the suit, but also to enhance the lifespan of the trousers that came with your initial suit. You typically spend 10 hours a day in your trousers – your jacket normally hangs on the back of your door. Thus making it harder on your trousers. If you wear them out, for all practical purposes the suit is destroyed. So invest in an extra set of trousers, perhaps in 2 different styles, to preserve the shape and even add variety the suit itself.

 

byDCLA - Pocket of your Suits

3. Limit the Use of Pockets
A wise tailor will always advise you to use the pocket of your suits as little as possible. Given this, try TO burden the internal pockets of your suit minimally with papers, pens, wallets, and externally, you may wish to keep your outer pockets sewn shut. Regularly loading the pockets especially the outside pockets causes wear and makes them sag. Loading the external pockets disturbs the shape and outline of the suit. You may prefer pockets for style, but do yourself a favor and keep their usage to a minimum.

 

4. Avoid Frequent Dry Cleaning
Dry cleaning is probably the simplest solution, when it comes to getting your suits cleaned. Though the cleaning agents used in dry cleaning restore the suit’s luster, frequent dry cleaning can also damage the fabric. Therefore, to ensure optimal lifespan of your suits, invest in quality dry cleaning on less regular intervals.

 

5. Mind the Storage Environment
The environment in which you store your suits impacts their life span. While there should be no humidity in the closet, thick wooden hangers are ideal to hang your suits, as they maintain the garment’s shape and also absorb moisture to a certain extent. In addition cedar blocks, hangers or closets are a terrific deterrent to moths and controlling the moisture in the closets. At the same time, ensure that your wardrobe has ample space so that you do not squeeze your suits giving them ample room to breathe – remember wool is a natural fiber.

 

Conclusion
A perfectly tailored bespoke suit can help you look your best, but maintaining the quality and cut over time should be considered part of the investment. Take the extra steps to preserve your suit so you can enjoy its bespoke benefits for years to come.

Personal and Professional Benefits that Suits Bring for You

Hardly anyone can deny the sheer power of a great suit. After all, suits play a big role when it comes to first impressions. Whether it is an important meeting, your first job interview, or simply about being elegant, a good suit positively influences these things in ways you can never imagine. Given this, whether you are considering acquiring custom-made suits in Los Angeles or trying an off-the-rack, multiple benefits lie ahead once you have the right stuff in your wardrobe. Let us sight a few:

 

byDCLA Wardrobe Essentials

 

Get an Edge over other Interviewees

Let us assume you are well qualified for a particular profile and have been invited for an interview. In the preparation phase, you need to ask yourself what you have that makes you stand apart from other interviewees. One thing you can always count on is your personal appearance. According to a study published in The New Professional Image, a book written by Susan Bixler, more than 150 employers said they rejected employees due to first impressions based on poor personal appearance.

 Be Likable with Style

Being intelligent, professional, charming, well prepared, etc. are not the only elements that endear you towards people; your style also makes a big difference. Many studies reveal that your appearance alone has the potential to make others find you likable, and even prefer you over other more qualified candidates in recruitment matters.

 

Enjoy More Credibility

A well-fitted suit enhances your personality. According to various studies, well dressed men are perceived as more credibility than men with sloppy, poor fitting attire. While not everyone may agree with this statement, A.G. Miller’s research on impressing others shows that people with better appearance are perceived to espouse a higher meaning to their lives and more positive attributes.

 

Boost Your Self-Confidence

A perfectly tailored suite has great potential to boost your self-confidence. Given this, whether you are looking for the best bespoke suits in Los Angeles or across the globe, don’t forget to consider elements such as the quality and colors of the fabric, tailoring, and the company’s experience.

 

Always dress for the occasion. Clothing has a profound effect on how we see ourselves and how others perceive our self worth. You can never go wrong with the right suit that is customized to enhance your true personality, confidence and talents.

A Comprehensive History of Men’s Suits

The 19th century not only gave us artistic masterpieces such as ‘The Starry Night’ by Vincent Van Gogh, it also marked the transition of intricately-embroidered and jeweled clothing into much simpler attires such as suits. That is the reason the era is often attributed for what can be regarded as a sartorial revolution. This was the time when men’s suits started to transform from bright, royal court dresses – from the days of the French revolution – to the contemporary forms of attire popular among today’s generation.

 

Interestingly, over the years, ‘business attire’ has undergone many changes – right from cuffs, to belts for men suits, and from styling of pockets to fitting of trousers. Though the evolution is still in progress, the footprints of history are no less intriguing.

 

byDCLA Belts for Men Suits

 

Inception – As a Dress Code for the First Time

 

Formal jackets came into being as a dress code for the first time in the 19th century, when King Charles II instructed his courtiers to wear a waistcoat, a long coat, and other things such as a cravat and hat, as a part of their daily attire.

 

Beau Brummell and the Business Suit

 

The Lounge Suit or the office suit that we know today was an invention or perhaps a gift to the coming generations by Beau Brummell – an icon of the Regency era – who redesigned the earlier dress code. Then, his idea of style was adopted by European men, which eventually lead to well-cut clothing and then to modern suits with neckties. The definition of men’s business suits has been constantly changing ever since.

 

byDCLA Men’s Business Suits

 

Frock and Morning Coat

 

The long period of peace and prosperity, an outcome of the Victorian era, saw great changes and gentlemen could be seen in frock coats. By the mid-19th century, people could be seen in a new version of attire called the morning coat that had a cut in the front, which soon gained mass acceptance owing to its informal tone. Though it was designed for the business class, frock coat was still not a ‘suit’, as people used to wear them with contrasting trousers. It was only during the Edwardian times, the morning suit became a standard dress.

 

Tuxedo and Oxford Bags

 

The end of the 19th-century saw the appearance of Tuxedos – when USA started to import dinner jackets and people called them by this moniker. Another development was the fashion of oxford bags – wide trousers that young people used to wear. The 1920s gave birth to the cuffing of trousers, a style reintroduced by Ralph Lauren Purple Label.

 

Developments from 1940 to 1980

 

Suit styles in the 1940s and 50s, with small lapel sizes and a fairly straight cut, aimed to modernize and simplify the attire. After the launch of ‘Saturday Night Fever’ in 1977, 3-piece suit came in vogue, often associated with discotheque culture. Tailoring started to suffer at the same time, as custom fit suits had made their way to the market, allowing people to separately purchase jackets and pants. By the 1980s, the suit became simpler and waistcoats were completely out of vogue.

 

The Now

 

Today, suits have become more comfortable and simpler than their predecessors; yet, the 21st century man has many options to explore. The choices do not end with a bespoke and off-the-rack; there are made-to-measures (MTM) as well.

Bespoke Suits: Elements to Consider When Going Bespoke

Going bespoke is one of the best ways to stand apart from the crowd. How could you not with quality materials from Savile Row’s in England or Loro Piana’s in Italy? Fine materials, superior tailoring – these are the elements that make your suit bespoke.

At byDCLA, we understand the true value of looking your absolute best. We define perfection by how our garment makes you feel. Does it contour to your body, comfortably, like an extension of your skin? Does the suit move with you when you move?

 

byDCLA_Bespoke Suits

 

Here are just a few of the other elements that go into making a perfect custom suit.

1. Define the Occasion

Experienced tailors will always ask you to define the occasion where you will be wearing your bespoke suit. Is the suit for a wedding, cocktails and dinner, for a board meeting? Will it be part of your wardrobe all year long, or a summer suit? Are you wanting to look of the moment or timeless? This information is vital to the tailor and influences the design, materials, color and texture of the final product.

2. Which Mills  Will Go in the Making?

Fabric plays a crucial role in custom tailored suits. When you go  bespoke, there should not be any limitations in terms of cloth selection. We have access to the best mills across the world, and each of them has a specialty they can provide depending on the look you are  going for. It’s not unusual for a  bespoke suit to involves the consideration of 10 fabric mills, a standard to which our professionals adhere to religiously.

3. Determine the Fit

Based on your body type, height, weight and personal style, a good tailor will work with you to determine the best fit for the best you. A close fit  should not restrict your arms or any other movement just as a looser fit should not erase your body shape.

4. Mind the Details

Stitching a bespoke suit requires precision and perfection. Good tailors keep every aspect and detail of the final product at hand. Stitching, lining, button holes, cuffs. Some people may need dropped shoulders or other nuances. Tailoring is the art of personalizing the garment where every stitch showcases the quality of workmanship.

Conclusion

The prominent tailor Gresham Blake once said in an interview, “The tailor is there to guide you through the service, so make sure you use him to get the suit that you want.”  We believe this at byDCLA.  We champion the pursuit of timeless elegance.

Why Bankers’ Gray

Finance and fashion rarely mix…or do they? Well, if you think that your over-worked banker could dress more aptly, then think again! It’s not that he doesn’t want to dress stylishly; it’s just that sometimes a business man’s wardrobe gets restricted to those typical blues and whites! However, with the availability of the internet, more and more men who work in finance are adopting new styles and colors in their wardrobe.

Are you among the thousands of men who believe in ‘power dressing’, but are unsure of where to start? The key to such stylish dressing is right here at your fingertips! Expand your horizons with made-to-measure designer suits for men on our website, http://www.bydcla.com/.

If you are wondering whether to choose a simple bankers’ gray suit, or one that uses the finest Italian wool by Ermenegildo Zegna, we can help you with that too! Our team of stylists is always available to assist you in building a great wardrobe. With just a few clicks of the mouse, you can fill out a simple online form by entering your basic contact details. Thereafter, our stylists can suggest the best options on fabric, patterns, cuts and related accessories.

byDCLA_Made-To-Measure suits

Compared to a readymade suit purchased off-the-rack, a custom tailored suit speaks volumes about the style quotient of the wearer. Be it a 100% wool suit, or high-quality cotton shirts, each of our products are created with great passion, and we strive to see the same in the eyes of esteemed customers.
In order to complement the finest fabrics, byDCLA (www.bydcla.com) also lists a range of unique accessories such as, cufflinks to satisfy the ‘fashion desires’ of men who love dressing up for every occasion! Gone are the days when suits were kept only for a special event. With our collection of made-to-measure and custom suits, you can dress smart at the workplace too!

With so many options to offer, our ‘numero uno’ tailoring house byDCLA is a great platform for men to make their wardrobe impressive and enviable. Be it business attire or informal polo shirts, amazing neck wear or neat pocket squares; we can offer a lot for you to explore!

From the comfort of your home or office, browse our website to know more about our customized range. Call us or connect online and we will create the best wardrobe for you! The customized garment will reach your doorstep in 4-6 weeks.

Functional Buttonholes

Also known as ‘Surgeon Cuffs’ or working cuffs, functional buttonholes are the sleeve buttons on high-end suits. Over the years, these buttonholes have become a ‘must-have’ for men who want a custom tailored look.

byDCLA- Functional Buttonholes

Basically, there are two types of buttonholes: hand-stitched and machine stitched. Hand-stitched buttonholes are stronger than machine stitched buttonholes. They last longer because they are made with individual care.  Hand stitched buttonholes can also be personalized in color or stitch to fit the man’s personal taste, season, or  style of the fabric.  These buttonholes are a sign that the suit is a unique, one of a kind, custom tailored suit. That’s why many men who have them choose to leave the last button intentionally undone. They want to showcase every level of detail on their custom suit.

 At byDCLA (www.bydcla.com), we provide quality, style and detail for the well-dressed modern man. Contact us today to discuss how we can help you look and feel your absolute best with one of our custom tailored suits.

Tips on Buying the Perfect Bespoke Suit

Suits have always been a quintessential part of the modern, progressive male. So, what is it that makes this apparel so special and a hit among men of all ages? These timeless pieces of clothing have always enhanced the presentability,

byDCLA- Perfect Bespoke Suit

Bespoke suits are one of the and suits worn by men. Bespoke suits are custom-made clothing and are made from scratch to meet the specifications laid down by the user.
Tailoring a bespoke suit is a work of art and only an experienced tailor can perform the task.

In order to avoid this, we recommend that you follow the guidelines given below when buying a bespoke suit:
Including unnecessary customizations should be strictly avoided. Experimenting with flannel in place of worsted is not a bad idea. Following a conservative approach while buying a bespoke suit is the best way to make the right choice. This maintains the focus on the most important aspect of these suits; that is ensuring a perfect fit.

Ask for a design sample. This will not only help you look at multiple options but also give a fair idea of what the final design will look like.